Move the cat last and unpack its room first. On moving day the cat should be shut in one labelled room with water, a litter box and its own bedding while the furniture leaves, or boarded for the day if the door cannot stay closed. In the new home it goes straight into one prepared room and stays there for three to seven days while you unpack around it. Cats cope with a move when the familiar objects arrive before the freedom does.

Four weeks before: paperwork and practice

Check the microchip is registered to a number you will still have after the move, and update the address the same week — a cat that slips out in the first fortnight is the classic lost-cat case. Get a copy of the vaccination record, ask your vet to send the history on, and register with a new clinic before you go. Refill prescriptions for 30 days; if you are crossing a border, check rabies and microchip rules a month ahead, because they cannot be rushed.

If the cat is not already comfortable in its carrier, start now: two weeks of leaving it out with food inside does more for moving day than any sedative.

Two weeks before: pack around the cat, not with it

Keep one room untouched until the last two days: no boxes, no tape. Pack elsewhere with the door shut. Do not wash the cat's beds in the final week — that smell is the anchor it follows into the new house. Tape every box as you fill it, because a cat will investigate an open one and swallow packing tape, which means surgery. Stack boxes no higher than you can see over.

Moving day: last out, first in

Put the cat in a bathroom or bedroom with a sign on the door saying "cat inside — keep closed", plus water, a litter box, a bed and something to hide under. Movers open doors constantly, and a cat that gets out on moving day is often gone for days. If no room can stay shut, board the cat at the vet or a cattery for the day — for an anxious cat that is the kindest option, not a betrayal. The cat travels in your car in a belted carrier, never in the van, and is never left alone in the car.

Base camp in the new home: three to seven days

Set the room up before the cat arrives: litter box, food and water at opposite ends, bed, scratching post, a cardboard box with a hole cut in it, and one piece of furniture to hide under. Bring a scoop of used litter — not the whole box — and the unwashed bedding. Plug in a pheromone diffuser if you use one. Open the carrier on the floor and leave.

Expect hiding for 24–48 hours, a reduced appetite for a day, and no interest in you. Sit and read aloud for ten minutes, three times a day. No food for 48 hours, no urine for 24, or no movement at all for three days are vet calls, not patience.

Expand the territory in stages

From day three to five, open the door for an hour while the cat is awake, and stay nearby. Add one room every two to three days, always letting the cat walk out rather than carrying it. If it retreats and hides again, close the door for two more days and retry. Most cats have the full flat in one to two weeks; a shy cat may take a month. Keep the base room and its litter box for a month after full access, because stressed cats go back to the known box.

Cat-proof the new place before the cat sees it

Fit window screens or restrictors before the cat arrives — falls from height peak in the first warm weeks, and a cat in an unfamiliar flat has no idea the window is a 12-metre drop. Net the balcony. Check gaps behind the washing machine and under the kitchen units, and look inside the washer, dryer and reclining chairs before closing them; cats have died in their first week from a dryer door left ajar. Rehome lilies and check which of your plants are toxic.

Keep the cat indoors for at least three to four weeks, and preferably permanently. A cat that slips out in a new neighbourhood has no homing map — the old territory is gone and the new one has not been learned — which is why microchip, collar and an ID tag all matter in the first month.

Long moves and the first sign of trouble

Under six hours, drive: carrier belted and covered, a break every two hours with water, no food for three to four hours before setting off. Over eight hours, consider a pet transport service or the cabin; cargo is the hardest option on a cat. Sedation only with your vet's agreement, tested at home two weeks earlier — a few cats react paradoxically and become more agitated. Watch week one for hiding beyond five days, no food for 48 hours, spraying, overgrooming, or hissing when you approach. For stress behaviour see the behaviour section, and for appetite and urinary red flags the health guides.

Frequently asked

Should I sedate my cat for a move?

Usually not. Most cats settle within a few days given a safe room and familiar scent, while sedation adds risk and hides how the cat is actually coping. Ask the vet only if the journey itself is unmanageable.

How long should a cat stay in one room after moving?

Three to seven days in a single prepared room, then open the rest of the home. Set up the litter box, food and water there before the cat arrives, not after.

My cat is hiding after the move - when should I worry?

Hiding for several days is normal. Worry if the cat eats or drinks nothing for over 24 hours, avoids all interaction for more than a week, or shows vomiting, straining in the litter box or laboured breathing.